Kootenay Lake and the east-central Arrow Lakes provides the West Kootenay region with plenty of natural geothermal mineral hot springs, and over time, these have been developed into attractive soaking pools and spas, perfect for relaxing after a physically active day, or for restoring health and vitality. These mineral spring experiences range from luxurious to rustic, one for every budget, even for backpackers with no cash to spare.
Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort
The oldest, most famous of the spas, Ainsworth Hot Springs is situated halfway between Balfour and Kaslo on the northwestern shore of the main Kootenay Lake (Off Highway 31, Google-Earth coordinates: 49°44'7.95"N, 116°54'40.79"W), and offers spectacular views to the southeast. Ainsworth's natural mineral spring water is a scorching 42º C (114º F) but cools to about 35º C (96º F) before used in the main pool. It is composed primarily of calcium, various salts, and magnesium. and a fresh flow is cycled through six times a day.
Ainsworth has a novel feature which contributes to its fame: a 175-meter long cave which extends in a shallow horseshoe under the mountain and functions like a Turkish steam-bath and soaking pool. The caves are linked to a jetted "Hot Tub" area. They are not natural, but were carved out by some of the region's miners back in the 1930s and 40s, in order to increase the flow of mineral water. The Cold Plunge, where temperatures are maintained at about 4º C, features a cascade. Three or four immersions, followed by a warm-up in the hot pool stimulates the flow of blood to the capillaries just under the skin, which feels very invigorating.
The main Lounging Pool is larger, but Ainsworth is geared towards adults. Kids might have some fun in the caves, which are a little spooky, but running, jumping and splashing are not permitted. The change rooms are spacious and comfortable, and gender segregated in the North American style, but the pools are not segregated and swimming attire is required. Although there is a wheelchair ramp inclining up to the entrance, the pool itself is not geared toward independent use by the disabled.
The hot springs are conjoined with a hotel, restaurant and lounge, but are open all year long to the general public. Other amenities include a gift shop and post office. Massages with a registered massage therapist can be booked ahead of time with the concierge staff.
Reservations: 1-800-668-1171
Halcyon Hot Springs Resort and Spa
Halcyon Hot Spring Resort overlooks Upper Arrow Lake, between Nakusp and the Galena Bay Ferry (just off Highway 23, Google-Earth coordinates: 50°31'19.66"N, 117°54'4.92"W), but blink and you will miss it. Halcyon calls itself a village, but it's really a resort community built around the pools which look out over the lake. Although they have a good restaurant, lounge, gift shop and various accommodations available, from luxurious chalets to rustic cabins, the closest services are in Nakusp, 32 kilometres south.
Temperatures in the Upper Pools range from 40º C (104º F) in the Hot Pool, 38º C (100º F) in the Warm Pool, and 12º C (55º F) in the cold plunge. There is a warm pool on a lower deck which is open during the summer. The spa, itself, offers complete amenities from relaxation to deep tissue to esthetics. A variety of differently priced packages are available.
Reservations: 1-888-689-4699
Halcyon Natural Hot Springs
There is another undeveloped hot spring in the woods off an unpaved backroad just north of the resort on the mountain side of the highway, which is where locals go for a free swim. If you prefer a more natural and au naturelle experience, that would be the one to visit. It's maintained only by the goodwill of the individuals who use it, so be sure to clean up after yourself, or you will make a sasquatch very angry!
Nakusp Hot Springs
Nine miles up the Kuskanax Valley northeast of the Town of Nakusp on Upper Arrow Lake, the Nakusp Hot Springs and Campground are the most family friendly of all three resorts. These hot springs have a rollicking history suited to the Klondike nature of the region, complete with claim-jumping and public outcries, but the pools themselves are very relaxing.
There are only two pools at the resort, a warm one at 38°C (100°F) and a hot one at 41°C (107°F.)
Nakusp Hot Springs is a destination which focuses on comfort and friendliness, more than luxury and frills. It has a cafeteria that is open for lunches during the day, and the rates are very reasonable. Evening dining and other amenities can be found at a number of different places in the townsite of Nakusp itself.
Other Restorative Experiences
Mineral hot spring spas are not the only restorative experiences available to visitors in the West Kootenays. The region is a powerhouse of various bodywork and energy replenishment spas, therapies and retreats, including:
- The Academy of Classical Oriental Sciences (Chinese Medicine and Acupuncture)
- The Kutenai Art Therapy Institute
There are also a wide variety of treatments available. Some of them—such as the Yasodhara Ashram—offer a distinctly spiritual focus with retreats in yoga or Tai Chi, while others—such as Mountain Waters Spa or Spa Oasis (both in the city of Nelson)—are oriented more toward massage, esthetics and physical restoration. It depends on how much personal involvement the traveler desires in their own treatment.
Simone Keiran - Simone Keiran’s book A Brief History of Western Sculpture, Quantum Books, was released at the 2009 Frankfurt Book Fair. Her articles ...
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